Lead Upstands & Drips: Heights & Edge Geometry

lead upstands and drips




#Proper Leadwork (2026): Upstands & Drips—Heights, Throatings & Edge Geometry

Welcome to the New Year master guide on lead upstands and drips. Rather than chase every edge case, this article concentrates on the dimensions and shapes that keep water out and façades clean. Along the way, you’ll find precise height ranges, clear rules for throatings and radii, and step-by-step workflows for aprons, parapets, gutters, and valleys. Finally, every section links to The Lead Lads® store and standards so you can specify, price, and order with confidence.

Part 10 of our “Proper Leadwork: Technical Series”. It consolidates Parts 3–9 into one, edge-focused playbook.

1) Why edges rule: the water path in 3 moves

First, water must rise and separate—your upstand and its chase enable that. Next, runoff needs a controlled leap—your drip provides the projection and radius. Finally, the flow must fall away cleanly—your throating breaks surface tension. When these three elements work as a set, leaks and stains become rare outliers.

  • Upstand: Adds height so wind or splash cannot force water over.
  • Drip: Throws runoff clear of adjacent surfaces and joints.
  • Throating: Interrupts tracking beneath noses and cills.
Design edges together; a tall upstand with a timid drip still stains the wall in storms.

2) Upstand heights by detail & exposure

Start with measurable targets; then adjust for exposure and visibility. The ranges below balance protection, proportion, and movement.

Detail Urban/Normal Exposure Severe/Coastal Exposure Notes
Chimney aprons & side flashings 75–120 mm 100–150 mm Increase where wind-driven rain persists
Parapet & cornice cappings 75–120 mm back upstand 100–150 mm Keep drips visible both sides on copings
Back gutters (chimneys) ≥ 75 mm returns & saddles ≥ 100 mm Pair with ≥ 1:80 fall and a safe overflow
Valley margins to walls 90–120 mm 110–150 mm Protect against splash and scour at mitres

Although bigger can look safer, excessive height often traps render and invites cracking. Aim for “enough, not too much”.

3) Drip geometry: projection, radius & consistency

A clean drip seems simple; however, its geometry carries the load. Use these ranges as your default; then refine for exposure and view lines.

Edge Projection Radius/Shape Notes
Chimney apron nose 20–25 mm Smooth, even radius Throw water clear of slate/tile noses
Parapet capping edges 20–25 mm (each side) Soft radius—no sharp creases Keep the line straight along the run
Cill & string course covers 15–20 mm Crisp arris with throating Staining disappears when throated correctly
Valley discharge lips Case-by-case Rounded edge Prevent scouring and splash-back

More importantly, maintain consistency. A wavy nose often means tight clips or a rough substrate—fix both before handover.

4) Throatings: undercuts that stop staining

Without a throating, surface tension drags water back under the nose. Consequently façades stain and joints remain damp. Cut a discreet under-groove beneath parapet, cornice, and cill noses so drops fall free.

  • Depth: A visible notch of several millimetres breaks tracking reliably.
  • Continuity: Carry the throating across joints uninterrupted.
  • Coordination: Keep noses proud of render; do not bury the groove.
Watch-out: Smeared sealant can bridge the throating and recreate tracking. Clean excess immediately.

5) Choosing codes for edges (aprons, parapets, gutters)

Edges take knocks, wind, and thermal cycling. Therefore select codes that hold shape yet still move.

Edge Type Typical Code Why
Chimney aprons & cover flashings Code 4–5 Forms tidy noses while accommodating movement
Parapet & cornice cappings Code 5–6 (7 in exposure) Stiffer edges for straighter drips
Back & parapet gutters Code 5–7 Capacity, debris resistance, and occasional footfall
Valley margins Code 6–7 Scour-resistant in high-energy zones

6) Welts, seams & capillary control

Wind can drive water uphill. In response, welts stiffen edges and defeat capillary creep. Nevertheless, do not let a welt trap movement.

  • Side laps: 60–75 mm; add a welt where exposure is severe.
  • Long façade edges: Welt to sharpen the line and arrest tracking.
  • Valley and mitre turns: Radius transitions to avoid crack-starter corners.

Geometry wins. Use sealant only as flexible pointing, never as a structural substitute for a welt.

7) Interfaces: soakers, flashings, rolls & gutters

Interfaces decide whether edges succeed. Coordinate adjacent parts so each helps the next and nothing fights movement.

Interface Edge Rule Why it Works
Soakers + step flashing Upstand 75–120 mm; chase ~25 mm; drip consistent Two-layer defence with serviceable steps
Cover flashing over render Continuous drip; clips 300–450 mm; laps unpinned Fast straight line that still slides
Hollow/wood rolls into parapet Welt long edges; soften end radii Movement control with clean visual caps
Parapet/box gutter edges Drip both sides; ≥1:80 fall; explicit overflow Water exits quickly and safely during storms

8) Thermal movement at edges: clips, straps & spacing

Metal moves daily; edges show it first. Consequently, restrain uplift yet allow sheets to slide along their length.

Location Fixing Typical Centres Notes
Apron noses & side flashings Clips (Cu/SS) 300–450 mm Keep lap zones free of fixings
Parapet/box gutter edges Straps + clips 300–400 mm Tighten centres in severe exposure
Roll edges & drips Clips 300–400 mm Maintain an even nose line

Should ripples appear at a nose, either clips are too tight or the deck is rough. Loosen spacing and smooth the substrate.

9) Substrates: brick, stone, render & coping stones

Edges rely on their base. Therefore cut clean chases, repair friable masonry, and keep render clear of drips and throatings.

  • Brick: Even chase depth (~25 mm); point with compatible mortar or neutral-cure sealant.
  • Stone: Test discreetly; protect arrises; avoid spalls while cutting.
  • Render: Keep noses proud; never bury the drip or throating.
  • Coping stones: Provide drips both sides; step joints over coping joints.

10) 10-step edge workflow (apron, parapet & valley)

  1. Survey: Record exposure, substrate soundness, and drainage routes.
  2. Choose code: 4–6 for aprons/cappings; 6–7 for valleys/gutters.
  3. Set upstands: 75–150 mm by detail/exposure; mark a physical datum.
  4. Design drips: 20–25 mm projection (15–20 mm on cills) with smooth radii.
  5. Add throatings: Continuous undercut beneath noses; verify visibility.
  6. Lay out laps: Head 100–150 mm; side 60–75 mm; no fixings in lap zones.
  7. Fixings: Clips/straps at 300–450 mm; tighten spacing in exposure.
  8. Underlay & deck: Smooth deck plus low-friction underlay to reduce abrasion and noise.
  9. Form radii: Soften corners; avoid crack-starter creases.
  10. QA & handover: Photograph datum, drips, throatings, corners, and overflow features.

11) Worked examples (3 scenarios)

Example A: New apron to brick chimney (urban, 35° slate)

  • Upstand: 100 mm; chase ~25 mm; neat pointing for a tidy reveal.
  • Drip: 22 mm smooth radius over slate noses for clean throw.
  • Code: 4–5; clips @ ~350 mm; laps unpinned for movement.
  • Outcome: Clean façade, strong reveal, quiet thermal slide.

Example B: Parapet capping on exposed seafront

  • Upstand: 120–150 mm back upstand; drips both sides for balance.
  • Drips: 25 mm with continuous throating to break tracking.
  • Code: 6–7; straps @ 300–350 mm; welted long edges.
  • Overflow: Weir/spout to the external face for safe failure.

Example C: Valley meeting a wall at a complex mitre

  • Upstand: 110–130 mm along the wall margin for splash control.
  • Edge: Rounded lip; radiused mitre; no tight inside corner.
  • Code: 6–7; side laps 70–75 mm with a welt in exposure.
  • Result: No scouring; clean discharge to sump/outlet.

12) Quality checks & handover photos

  • Datum proved: Level marks and measured upstand heights recorded.
  • Drip line: Straight, even, and consistent projection along the run.
  • Throatings: Unbroken beneath noses; visible in close-ups.
  • Laps: Within target dims; fixings absent in lap zones.
  • Corners/radii: Soft, crack-free, and symmetrical.
  • Overflow: Weirs/spouts photographed and explained for client records.

Because edges are visible, include a few eye-level photos for clients. That proof protects your warranty.

13) Edge defects—cause & cure

  • Stained façades: Missing throating or buried nose.
    Fix: Re-form the drip; add a continuous throating; keep noses proud of render.
  • Rippled noses: Tight clips or rough substrate.
    Fix: Reset clip centres to allow slide; smooth the deck; add underlay.
  • Ponding at aprons: Flat back gutter or reverse fall.
    Fix: Regrade to ≥ 1:80; verify with a datum; add saddle/overflow if needed.
  • Cracks at corners: Sharp folds or pinned laps.
    Fix: Re-form with soft radii; free the lap; step up a code where spans demand.
  • Capillary ingress: Unwelted long edges in exposure.
    Fix: Introduce welts; increase side laps to 70–75 mm.

14) What to buy & where



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